Raised Beds

I am amazed at some of the things called ‘RAISED BEDS’ I see advertised or in articles, whether for sale new or plans for do it yourself, these are NOT raised beds but CONTAINERS. They are filled with all sorts of growing medium and people think they are growing healthily vegetables. Please think again.

Healthy food comes from healthy soil.

I know, I’ve heard it all before ‘my soils no good’ Well the essential art of gardening is to enhance the cycle of life by finding ways to restore humus to the soil. All gardeners find their own way to achieve this. All Soil can be improved, sure it may take time but quality produce only comes from quality soil. As you observe your soil .like any other living thing  it is always changing and telling its own story. There is more life beneath the soil than above therefore you need to encourage and cultivate its existence.

Understanding your soil is a basic requirement for the success of your veggie garden. You can build tremendous satisfaction from working with the soil, building its tilth, fertility & water holding capacity.

WHAT IS A RAISED BED?

2000 years ago the Greeks noticed that plant life thrived on landslips. Loose soil allows air, moisture, warmth, nutrients and roots to properly penetrate the soil. In the 1920’s the biodynamic method brought back the raised bed plantings 

The curved surface area between the 2 edges of the bed provide more surface area for planting and the penetration and interaction of the natural elements than a flat surface . They also have the advantage of being raised (10-30cm) above the surrounding area adding more life, increasing soil depth, air, more earthworms, and micro organisms and with improving drainage.

Beds can be any length, ideally 1 metre wide so you can easily reach across the bed.10-30 cm higher than the original surface.

The preparation of the raised bed is most important

I feel gardens need to be dug especially in the beginning. The tired and compacted soil needs to be woken up, loosened and aerated. Roots from nearby trees that are invading will need digging out. Try to only dig the topsoil. All the life is there. Traditional double digging is a good method to use. In addition the top few cm of soil from the pathways can be dug out and added to the bed. Over time the more compost you add, on a seasonal basis, the lighter the soil becomes.

Modified Raised Beds

Raised beds can be surrounded by a structure. They should be between 10-30cm high. Although this reduces the surface area it contains the soil. It’s an ideal system on slopes and terraces.

It is a disadvantage if there is any risk of running type grasses e.g. couch, kukupa.

Tree roots seek out rich soil and water, invading cultivated beds robbing the plants of nourishment and stunting their growth. They should be dug over as often as needed depending on the severity.

I have used small permanent raised beds for the past 30+ years. When I started the site of my garden was part of our driveway, highly compacted soil mixed with gravel that sloped away. The tilth improved quickly with raised bed and good biodynamic compost and within a couple of seasons you only required minimum effort to grow anything.

Preparing the bed is the most time-consuming aspect to a well-prepared garden...

To make the beds

Mark out your bed & foot paths. Dig over the bed area . If you think it’s too much work, remember that this is a once off job and it does not have to be done instantly, take your time and you will be surprised how much your soil will reveal about itself as it’s awakened.

Top soil from the surrounding area (footpaths) is added and then the soil can mounded up to form a bed approx 1 metre wide - this will increase the soil depth and improve the drainage quite dramatically .Do not dig into the sub soil layer. 

Quality humus rich compost is dug into the beds *If in the beginning you do not have any compost there are many ‘organic’ fertilisers on the market. Be careful when choosing, for many have added soluble fertilisers. Such as Nitrogen (N) and phosphate (P) for the future go and learn how to make quality compost.

 

· The beds can now be planted.

· As the beds warm up & plants become established they can be mulched.

· Simple really

If you make the effort this is the opportunity, as there is nowhere else on this earth like your garden, with its own combination of soil, micro climate, microorganisms and YOU. As you interact with your garden, no matter how small, you put your stamp on it and contribute to its individuality and not just have fresh produce but have fresh produce rich in the earth’s own energies that are truly good for you and your family.

Nobody else will be able to produce vegetables that taste quite the same as yours. What could be better than eating food grown in your unique garden?

 

Vegetables for the table year round.

The first thing you notice about my home vegetable garden is that it is well fenced to keep poultry and dogs out.

The large banana passionfruit vine is a good deterrent as they can’t see through and see what they are missing.

As you enter there is always a vast array of vegies, some growing, some ready for the table and some going to seed to ensure future crops.

Established in 1983 the annual  garden is 10 x 18 m and includes a tool shed (in need of new door!) propagation area, cold frames and its own compost area.

THIS VEGETABLE GARDEN IS DESIGNED TO PRODUCE A STEADY SUPPLY OF TOP QUALITY PRODUCE WITH MINIMUM WORK. THE BASIC FEATURES ARE : *PERMANENT RAISED BEDS. The soil from pathways was used to build beds. Each bed is enclosed to keep soil in. The width of the bed ensures easy reach. GARDEN BEDS SHOULD NEVER BE WALKED ON!!!! *VEGETABLES ARE GROWN IN SOIL ENRICHED WITH OUR OWN BIO DYNAMIC COMPOST. * EACH BED HAS ITS OWN IRRIGATION SYSTEM. *THE SOIL TILTH REQUIRES MINIMAL EFFORT IN CULTIVATION. WEEDS ARE EASILY HAND PULLED, SOIL RAKED & THEN SEEDS PLANTED. *THE AREA IS KEPT IN BALANCE BY PROVIDING HABITAT AREAS AROUND THE PERIMETER (THE WILD AREA) FOR BENEFICIAL CREATURES. SEED+ SOIL+COMPOST+WATER+SUNLIGHT=HEALTHY VEGETABLES

Cold frame & parsley	Broad beans & broccoli
There is always something for the table.	Garlic crop
Garlic & chicory. Meals revolve around what’s in the garden mixed with what has been preserved.	Flowering turnips
miners lettuce & mache	Green wave mustard
Cabbage	Kale
Snow peas	Cardoon
New round garden fed and watered by worm farm	Borage grows wild throughout the garden. Great for attracting bees.

Behind this area is the perennial garden and herbs. Perennial plants need different attention so it made sense to separate them.This is a relatively new garden established in 2000.A fenced off area 12x 10m which contained 5 old apple trees, sour sobs, other bulbs, grasses and clovers. The area received the morning sun especially after the removal of a large pine on adjoining property.Artichokes, rhubarb, strawberries,asparagus,hops, comfrey, nettles, rue,wormwood, valerian and 1 apple tree all share this garden.Camellia flowers provide a great fairy carpet mulch.

The successful growing seasons can be simply extended by the use of cold frames which are easily constructed and a 6 x 4m tunnel which is a thin sheet of plastic which can keep plants growing during the cold wet winters. Although many things grow outside in winter they are often sitting there which is great for the root crops that get sweeter but lettuce just gets bitter so its ideal for indoor growing.Capsicums never ripen outdoors here so they do well along with the sweet potatoes and ginger. There is also a heated propagation area to get summer veg off to a early start.

  

Want to learn more about producing  vegies for your table everyday and how to grow them successfully using proper organic methods.Deb shares 30 + years of experience of how to do it easily. Workshop Details

  

Green manure crop

The green manure crop of oats and peas, planted in May has now been returned to the earth.

Rather than digging it in I prefer to cut it down. I use a brushcutter with a steel blade this gives a clean sharpe cut and leaves the grass long.

By cutting it down the roots are retained in the soil and breakdown very quickly while the tops form mulch which protects the soil, holds in the moisture all of which encourages the earthworms and micro organisms.

It is then treated with biodynamic barrel compost (also known as cow pat pit or ccp) This year I developed a home garden method of making this so all biodynamic home gardeners can have their own supply. To use this I took 20grams of the barrel compost and stirred it (using the usual biodynamic method) in 5 litres of warm water for 20 minutes in the afternoon when the earth is breathing in.

IN THE VEGIE GARDEN

There are still good harvests of cabbage, turnips, carrots, celery, kale , broccoli, mustard greens, lettuce, mache, miners lettuce ,chard/silverbeet, parsnips, swede, chicory, leeks, broad beans tops, endive, fennel,

beetroot, spring onions and arugula.

The garlic and onions are growing well

. Monthly planting occur all year round to ensure a continual harvest.

The herb garden is now well established and looks much better than the 'lawn' it replaced. .

The early seeds of tomatoes, capsicums, pumpkin and cucumbers planted with bottom heat 2 days before the full moon in August are up and doing well in the newly designed propagator in the tunnel house. Also in the tunnel are a couple of capsicums and an eggplant that have over wintered there. They all have new shoots and the eggplant is flowering.

Keeping cool in a heat wave

The days start early with poultry, irrigation, mulberry picking and a general overall check before the morning heat becomes intense and its time to retreat to the relatively cool house. Our 1870’s house usually stays cool with its thick stone walls, thick curtains, high ceilings and well insulated roof. Inside cooling is via a ceiling fan plus a portable fan. We have a routine of opening it up as soon as the outside temperature is lower than outside. In prolonged heat the stone finely heats up and last night it was very late before the outside temperature dropped enough to open up the house. This morning its cool again compared to outside

Here's some highlights of my early morning stroll through the vegetable garden.

Pumpkin patch

Austrian oilseed pumpkin

January plantings

January plantings of winter vegetables

Black Salsify

And the herb garden

Angellica

Artichoke- imperial star

Mexican Tarragon -tagetes lucida

More pictures of the summer vegetable gardens

.....as the heatwave continues

I am very impressed as to how the vegie garden is looking and proves that all the quality compost and biodynamic methods really pay off big time in extreme conditions.-or maybe they are more noticeable then.
Although the hills are cooler – This week so far 34, 42. 45 today is about the same if not hotter than yesterday with no relief in sight.Actually at present its 44.

Only the January planting have been covered. I use light weight curtains & old sheets over ¾ Polly hoops. They are held on by pieces of ¾ polly cut down the middle. I find this much better than shade cloth which is heavy and needs more supports.

From Jan- March the monthly plantings are usually covered to aid germination & to keep the blackbirds from scratching them up .Once germinated the covers are removed but this week I have been covering during the day and removing them in the late afternoon. They are all looking good.

I have just continued my routine weekly watering program – each bed is watered once a week with micro sprinklers and the watering is spaced out over the week taking advantage of early mornings and late afternoons/evenings, I can do this as we have our own water supply. 10-15 minutes of water for each bed is sufficient for the week- so it is very efficient. Seeds need to be watered twice a day for around 3-5 min until germinated and then daily for the next week, every 2-3 days til established then once a week after that.

The hot weather as helped the tomatoes, capsicums and cucumbers power on and ripen although some tomatoes in the tunnel house got burnt (often it takes forever to get things ripe in the garden so we need so in there) I dread to think hot it got in there yesterday.

Majority of the ornamental gardens are never watered in summer save for a ‘green’ zone around the house for fire safety and house cooling. This means the new herb garden is being watered so doing well.

On total fire ban days we stay indoors, listen to the radio and monitor conditions hourly, this includes refreshing all water bowls and birdbaths, checking the poultry and dogs that remain on fox duty as at these times attacks are more likely. Plus checking for smoke.
Today of all days I had to pick up 10 pullets we had ordered, I got them home quickly and installed in their new pen – now they have settled in. Unfortunately last week the large twisted willow that shaded the west wing pens crashed in half with both halves on the ground leaving the pens exposed. I’ve put up some shade cloth and hession and the pens are fitted with misters so they are relativity cool although not as cool as the pens under the oak tree. You really feel the difference when you walk under any of the large oaks.

Lets hope the heatwave passes without too much drama and we can get things done work in the gardens and orchards.

February seeds

Today was seed planting day (2 days before full moon) or rather it started off as reseeding some of the January plantings. This time of year is some what challenging when it comes to seeds. Firstly there is the heat that dries out the seedbeds very quickly. In January I put shade cloth over the seeds & covered the area with old sheets. It worked very well with excellent germination. I took away the covers; everything looked great until the blackbirds decided they fancied digging in the damp soil. They dug up and destroyed all the seedlings along one side so I replanted and covered the reseeded area with racks. So then naturally they dug up the other side. Time to get serious so today that side was replanted. The parsnips, some carrots, chard, chicory and beetroot where replaced and now the whole bed was covered with bird netting. If the cool change does not come tomorrow I will cover it during the day with sheets to keep the moisture up.

So now it was time to plant this months seeds. The other challenge at this time of the season is finding space, a bed growing bush beans which had produce early and now on the wane was cleaned up and Lauren, my able assistant/student (University of Life).then prepared the bed and planted the swedes, parsnips carrots, lettuce, kale, spring onions, Earliball cabbage, endive, arugula ,turnips and kohi rabi. The polly pipe frames where then erected and bird netting protection added to give the seeds a good start.

Harvest at present is dominated by beans, bush beans like redland pioneer, amethyst, borlotti, and climbers, I planted lots of climbers, my main trellis is made from a bike wheel and string but I’ve found some of last years plum prunings made neat trellises for the zebra, purple king, blue lake and some small black bean seeds to grow on. But the kings of them all are the scarlet runners they grow so big yet are so tender. The carrots & parsnips are also at their best while the tomatoes, cucumbers and greens are all providing a valuable addition to the daily diet. So much flavour!

A Time of Plenty

Reaping the harvests at this time of the summer is special. This is when the planning, planting & caring for the garden really pay off well. The basket is laden with beans, actually I’ve planted a few too many as I got carried away with making trellises from prunings. These pruning were a result of a program to reducing the hight of some of our mature fruit trees to make netting easier. I had put them aside to use for weaving projects but then thought they would make interesting trellises. So they are now supporting various beans along with the main bike wheel trellis.

Daily harvests of tomatoes, cucumbers, a rich variety of greens, carrots of all colours, basil, deliciously sweet parsnips, and rich beetroot plus when required chard and, the odd cabbage make meals special. This week a friend brought round a rabbit, which was cooked to perfection by Quentin and shared with our neighbour June. Needless to say it was served with a wide selection of vegetables fresh from the garden.

To ensure continual harvests, continual plantings are necessary .I plant 1 or 2 1 metre rows 2 days before the full moon, some are thinned & transplanted in any gap I can find, the rest let develop & harvested at varying stages. Planting 2 days before a full moon ensures quick germination but more importantly gives me a rhythm to work with & ensures I plant seeds each month for a continual harvest. When I transplant seedlings either from the garden beds or pots I always do it in the late afternoon when the earth in breathing in and preferably on the new moon as the earth's least fertile time. This gives the seedling time to settle in and the take advantage of growth period of the full moon.

Garden View from top of Garden Shed.